How this unplanned visit turned to be the best dizzy dazzling trip ever!
Booking the Trip
I had been planning to visit Thailand for quite some time. The whole desire first came when I started practicing Muay Thai in 2013. The original plan was to attend a tourist gym in Phuket while enjoying the beach. However, things changed after reading about how it was more of a tourist trap ,and perhaps less of an authentic experience. Instead, my girlfriend and I booked a much cheaper flight to Bangkok and rented a condo for a month to enjoy more exposure to the local culture.
Where We Stayed
Landing after an exhausting 23 hours flight from Toronto, we were all up and ready to explore our new playground.
We chose a furnished apartment condo conveniently located next to the BTS skytrain line, just 25 min from the main city core. With a towering view perched from the 26th floor, we were spoiled with full amenities such as security, laundry, a pool, and most importantly, a gym. Also within walking distance, we had convenience stores, plenty of street food, and a large mall.
Temple Visits on a Tuk Tuk Twist
Being the predominant religion in Thailand, I wanted to delve first into the Theravada Buddhist tradition.
Wat Pho was the starting point for our first visit to see the colossal reclined Buddha. On the way to the main entrance, a Thai man approached us in good English, and said that sadly, the temple was closed for a special Thai holiday. He offered to drive us to other nearby temples instead for a cheap tuk tuk ride. We thought this guy was God-sent and admirably friendly for generously guiding us. And so, eagerly on we went visiting the neighboring temples.
Each one conveyed a sense of serenity amidst the chaotic city, while being visually doused with vivid colors and stunning architectural prowess. Our improvised tour guide waited for us at each exit to take us to the next oasis of tranquility. Along the way, we stopped at a tourist tour office where we booked a trip to an island and a floating market, and a clothing shop where I had to insistently decline a tailored suit. Little did we know but later on, came to learn that we had fallen for the oldest scam in the book. However, things actually turned out serendipitous in our favor, as we did enjoy our day. So, we shrugged the whole thing off as nothing more than an adventure.
Our hustler companion finally dropped us at Wat Pho, which was now conveniently "re-opened". The place was heavily crowded with tourists. I did not find the same peacefulness as the other neighborhood temples seen earlier. We were still in awe in front of the giant statue, hastily taking a few pictures before heading out.
Transportation
Bangkokians swear by their BTS skytrain and with very good reason. It is the fastest and cheapest way to move around this gargantuan metropolis. Being fed up with taxis for their shocking ignorance to navigate the city, and tuk tuks insisting on outrageous prices, the skytrain was a refreshing relief. Other options included Grab rides, similar in concept to Uber. We did most of our sightseeing on foot nonetheless, for the pleasure of slowing things down and enjoying a good workout. According to my Fitbit, we were covering the equivalent of a marathon (42km) every week!
Oh My God the Food!
Everyone at some point has heard or read about how amazing Thai food is. You don't actually know until you've experienced it in Thailand. Abundant incredibly cheap delicious street food is everywhere. From tender marinated meat on skewers, to spicy salads, to savory colorful fruit, to coconut ice cream and smoothies… not once did we cook for our entire stay. Reaching out to the nearest street cart at anytime to find solace in local delicacies. Inside malls, more gastronomy presented itself than the heart could chose from.
Aside from Thai cuisine, we discovered a little part of town full of Middle Eastern shops and serving authentic food, which satisfied a few other cravings.
Shop Till You Drop
Bangkok houses some of the biggest malls in Southeast Asia. Finding quality products at low prices turns quickly into compulsive shopping. One such example is MBK mall or Chatuchak weekend market. Rows upon rows of boutique vendors become an elaborate labyrinth of cheap goods too tempting to pass. Let's just say that my girlfriend and I both replaced our entire wardrobes with new outfits and fashionable shoes at a value that would've ruined us back home.
Nightlife
Becoming sleepless in Bangkok with non-stop fun every day and every hour of the week is very easy.
One such place known as Khao San road is endowed with a love/hate relationship on a small street section. From our perspective it was overwhelmingly fun for all senses and a tad bit tacky, but we still enjoyed a few nights there. Blaring music from all directions, a stream of street food carts, bugs on skewers, massage lounges and everything in-between ornaments to knickknacks to "laughing gas". People from all ages and walks of life bathed in this carnivalesque festive byway. It seemed to be a main stop for tourists of all ages, including young parents pushing their toddlers in strollers through the chaos. We even met with people who were still carrying their luggage as they had come straight here en route to their hotels.
One cannot talk about nightlife without the mention of the red light districts. Patpong was the first on our list after researching it diligently. At first sight, pimps eagerly jumped on us with menus listing a dozen ways to obscenely describe female genitalia, repeatedly saying "come see ping pong show!". Based on stories about the scummy ways tourists are tricked into these places, we declined the nagging invitations. The next place we were curious to see was Nana Plaza, also known as the "largest adult playground in the world"... or tackiest I should say. Teeming with many old lonely men awkwardly negotiating paid company, it was still nice to see everyone was enjoying themselves out with friends and cold drinks in hot weather.
From the 49th Cloud
Bangkok can dish up more fun options than you can possibly process with your senses. One such opulence was a dinner at a rooftop bar lounge, timed at sunset. Our choice settled on Octave for its great reviews of being less crowded than its competitors. Located right next to a BTS station, and sitting on top of the lavish Marriott, Octave offered a bountiful experience and fantastic view of the city. For happy hour we savored cocktail drinks made with real fruit pulp that tasted like nectar made in heaven. The food was even more flavorsome and exquisitely prepared. All this was served by a very friendly staff who catered to us like royalty, while being swayed with House music. The sunset was even more captivating as it blended with the smog and towering buildings.
Rose Tinted Glasses
Traveling can sometimes skew one’s perception of a new place into an overly romantic view. Bangkok is no exception to that occurrence. While The City of Treasures is bountiful of wealth and experiences, the down sides exist like in any other major capital. Air pollution is one very major concern. We now understand why so many Thai choose to wear masks on a daily basis. During our stay, the authorities declared emergency actions triggered by very high toxin levels in the air. Schools had to be shut down and masks were in order, more than usual. Deciding to err on the safe side we joined in for safety concerns. The situation was so bad they resorted to create artificial rain with sky drones. It felt like a bad dystopian novel.
In Conclusion
The restless capital did not fail to amaze us with delight. Given how densely crowded and busy it was, it did not convey a sentiment of stress. Compared to other major cities like New York and even Toronto, no one yelled or shoved. People politely and calmly just went about their daily routine with resolve and when the evening came, everyone enjoyed the exquisiteness and riches of their city. Unlike a typical tourist town, Bangkok felt more real as we were determined to experience every-day life from the locals’ perspective. All-in-all we now affectionately call Bangkok our second home and look forward to visiting many times more in the future.
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