March 1st, 2019 - Jay Abelian
Only known by locals and definitely not on any tourist tour-guided maps, pure adventure awaits at Wat Khao Nor monkey mountain and bat caves.
My curiosity started while searching for places to hike near Bangkok. Given the diversity of the Thai landscape, I knew something, somewhere, was waiting for me. After a few searches on Google I stumbled on this blog entry: “Easy and terrifying all at the same time, try this quick daredevil hike!“.
It had me at "terrifying".
Not only that, but it also drew attention to the fact that this mountain was home to macaque monkeys and bats. I had to see this!
Getting There
The next step was to find a way to get there. The article suggested to rent a car, however, driving in Thailand has its own set of rules I wasn’t ready to stress with… nor did I want to risk either getting lost or seriously injured. For just 5500THB, I hired a private driver for the entire trip, who picked us up right in front of our condo. He also served as a translator which came in very handy.
The drive was cozy and smooth. I must say that most of the roads we traveled were very well serviced with big gas station convenience stores just like to the ones back in Canada. Three hours later, after bearing through an early heavily congested Bangkok and a homey McDonald’s breakfast, the limestone peaks of Wat Khao Nor greeted us.
The Arrival
We were welcomed by a local villager along with a horde of macaques at the entrance. He offered us some advice and recommended someone from town as a guide for 200THB. I hired him on the spot because A) it provided them an income, and B) a local guide will likely take you to secret places and share personal stories. Ours didn’t speak a word of English so I saw an opportunity to brush-up on my broken Thai.
Following introductions and small talk with the locals, we were invited to feed the monkeys with the purchase of a banana basket. Holding the basket in one hand while tossing a few scattered pieces to make sure every monkey got a fruit did not work as planned, as they all jumped the basket emptying its content within seconds.
The Climb
Next, we headed to one of the four peaks with our guide Anand. I estimated the height at approx 500m. It wasn’t a technical climb so much, but more of a cardio endurance challenge, as you have to go up hundreds of stairs. Do not attempt the steep climb if you have vertigo. My girlfriend, being very adventurous and daring, could not push through – her fear of heights took over immediately. The last few meters have you climb on metal ladders up a vertical wall with no safety straps. One false move or slip and you can potentially plunge to your death. I can’t stress this enough but do not underestimate this “easy and yet terrifying” climb. Anand did all this in flip flops of course, but safety in Thailand is optional.
Once at the top I was exhilarated by the magnificent boundless beauty offered by the summit view. One could see the adjacent farmlands stacked like puzzle pieces surrounded by peaks jutting out with determination. Anand rang prayer bells next to a serene sitting statue of Buddha, echoing the peaceful sounds into the vastness. We took a few memorable action shots and headed back down the steep ladders.
Secret Bat Cave
We then explored another area that stood closer to the main temple, accessible through a flight of beautifully colored stairs that seemed to have been neglected by time. Behind a fenced door keeping the monkeys out lay a reclined Buddha. After uttering the Thai word “Khangkhaw”– short for bat– our guide immediately knew what I was inquiring about. We followed him behind the statue into what looked like a dark secret entrance that spilled into a cave. Walking carefully, he pointed his flashlight to the ceiling, casting light on thousands of bats hanging that occasionally hovered from one place to another. It was both fascinating and thrilling to be standing there just the three of us silently gazing at this spectacle. Simply observing nature undisturbed and not in some zoo behind glass doors. No lineups, no whaling children.
Dinner & Rest
Satisfied with our adventure so far, we headed back to rest at the main entrance, to indulge in delicious traditional food. Makeshift shacks coupled with wooden furniture made for an exotic rustic food court. The meals were well served by a family-run business with much care, making us feel like guests in their home. A word of warning here about keeping an eye on your food and belongings, as the monkeys will snatch anything they can put their hands on, in a heartbeat. The owners try to keep them at bay with slingshots, which is quite entertaining to watch. A nap in a hammock after the copious meal was in order, killing time until our last piece de resistance.
The Flight of the Million Bats
At sunset, you can witness wilderness like you would only see on National Geographic. Literally millions of bats fly out in formations from the side of a mountain. Leaping out in large droves, filling the sky in harmonious twirls bound to a rhythm only they can hear. Many locals from neighboring towns come specifically to watch the air show acrobatics while enjoying dinner with family.
In Conclusion
This adventure is sure to be in our memories for life. It brought us up close and personal with both the wildlife and the people. The location is quite run down so don’t expect a sterile tourist park. There’s a bit of litter, and the smell of pungent monkey feces permeating the air (it is their home, after all). However, if you go there with an open mind, you will be immensely rewarded with a refreshing perspective. Treat it like the sacred treasure it is, and you will gain a once-in-a-lifetime memorable escapade.
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Location: Wat Khao Nor, Tambon Ban Daen, Amphoe Banphot Phisai, Chang Wat Nakhon Sawan 60180, Thailand - ตำบล บ้านแดน อำเภอ บรรพตพิสัย นครสวรรค์ 60180
Directions from Bangkok: https://goo.gl/maps/uvkY5zVDT9U2
Entrance: Free (guide optional but recommended)
Company I hired the driver with:
Bangkok Best tour, bkkbesttour@hotmail.com,+66869032963. 17/1 Soi Phrachum Silom soi 22 Bangkok 10500
If the driver is available ask for Mr. Khun. He’s a retired man with a very clean & spacious car. His English is functional and his attention & care are outstandingly generous.
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